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TEMPLES ON THE NILE
The Pharaonic past

The Pharaonic Egypt didn't stop where today's borders are. Many goodies for those profoundly interested in remains from ancient Egypt, rest in the Sudan. But they're often hard to come to, as communications are sadly underdeveloped. But for experienced travelers this should add to their attractions. We're talking about temples that deserves a lot of attention, but you'll have the area more or less to yourself. If there are anyone there at all, that will be locals still without the knowledge on how to exploit tourism.
The site counted as the most interesting, is the temple of Soleb, built by Amenophis III (around 1400 BCE) in memory of his victories around here. But this is hard to come to. Renting a donkey or a camel is half of the trouble getting here. Crossing the Nile (temple of Soleb is on the western side of the Nile) is the other obstacle. Just some few kilometres north of Soleb, the temple of Saddenga is found, this too built by Amenophis III.
Temple of Amara is far easier to access, and you can use the little town of Abri as a base, as it has a small lokanda, and cross the river from here. This temple from around 1270 BC is a gem, as it is one of the temples built under Ramses II least destroyed.
Fairly easy to access from the city Delgo, the temple of Sesibi is less interesting than the two farther north. The temple was built by Amenophis IV around 1360. Across Dongola, on the eastern bank of the Nile, the ruins of the temple of Kawa is found. Just like Sesibi this is a disappointment., and little is now left. This is by far the youngest of the temples, and constructed in the 7th century BCE.

Eat and Sleep
Difficult for most sites. The rule is that the less there is to see, the better conditions for eating and sleeping. Dongola is really the only place that comes with more than just a lokanda, and small stalls selling snacks.

Transportation
You have to rely on buses, and local boats, especially for the river crossings. Your own 4WD around here can come in handy. There is only one bridge crossing the Nile, half way between Delgo and Dongola. This is your only choice if you want to do all temples riding in a 4WD.

Going Next
North: Wadi Halfa
South: Karima




By Tore Kjeilen