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Town without neighbours

Tarfaya is a weird stop on the route going to, or coming from, Laayoune, the capital of the South. The small number of houses and people here in between the Atlantic and the sand, will charm many visitors. A walk around town will soon lead you to the beach where one of Morocco's landmarks is found: .


Tarfaya is found in the middle of waves coming from two sides. It's right on the sea, but it is under constant threat of being eaten up by sand dunes. Tarfaya could change in the years to come, as plans for oil development could be realized. Until then, people here make their living out of the only fertile field there is, the sea.


Exactly when the Dar Mar was built, I don't know, but locals in Tarfaya seem to agree that it is about 200 years old, which means that it is older than Tarfaya itself. Dar Mar, or Casa Mar, is great sight, fronted by waves on all sides, with the beach on one side and the endless Atlantic on the other.



Tarfaya hotels

Elmassira Elkhadra (t. 048 895045) OK value for money
Tarfaya (No phone) OK value for money

Hotels and alternatives
Two very basic hotels, but camping should be possible, despite the proximity to former Western Sahara.

Restaurants and alternatives
Eating is done in cafés, very basic, very cheap. The vegetables here are fantastic (don't ask me how it is possible), buy kilos of heavenly cucumbers!

Erratic connections to Tan Tan and Laayoune, with buses or taxis.

By Tore Kjeilen