Hotels and alternatives
Fair selection on hotels, but little for travellers looking for comfort and elegance. The most expensive hotel is reportedly not worth the money, wbile the cheaper options are.
Restaurants and alternatives
Better than for the hotels. Restaurants in the hotels, as well as a couple of independent, but basic, ones in town centre.
Nothing organized, tour groups will have to entertain themselves.
At last check, no banks. Stock up on dirhams in Ouarzazate (west) and Er-Rachidia (east).
Buses and grand taxis to Ouarzazate (west) or Tinerhir (east) and beyond.
In order to get up to the Todra Gorge, you will have to arrange for your own transport (hiring a car or a taxi in both cases you will only get some 25 km deep (arond Aït Oudinar) before the road forces you to turn around. If you plan to go beyond this, you need to travel with a tour group or cough up the money needed to rent a 4x4 car and preferrably a driver, and perhaps even a local guide (roads are bad and there are many unposted junctions up in the mountain).
If you want to head into the Sarhro Mountains, note that the roads are to bad for most normal vehicles. Renting your own 4x4 or joining a guided tour is the best for most. You could convince a taxi driver to take you some of the road, and then walk into the mountains on your own. If you do, you should be well experienced with hiking in mountains, equipped with a good map, a compass, provisions and a sleeping bag or bring a guide and follow his instructions.